Changing Seals

Suggestions on removing and re-installing bearing, sleeve, and seals 

Removal:

  1. Turn off the power, water, steam, and lock out and tag out washer.
  2. Remove the front left and front right side panels, and rear panel. Open the left rear side panel.
  3. Remove the belts that go from the big pulley to the motor.
  4. Remove the bolts on the side of the shell. They are located at the 4 and 8 o’clock positions on the shell. Insert 2 1/2” (16mm) bolt into the shell until it touches the drum. Turn one more time. Do not over tighten the bolts.
  5. Remove the pulley. Take the 4 bolts out of the pulley and use 2 of them as a jacking bolt to remove the spacer. Turn the bolts evenly a little at a time to prevent cracking or stripping the spacer. The pulley is very heavy and requires two people to remove safely.
  6. Remove the bearing housing cap. Do not loosen the mounting bolts to the housing at this time.
  7. Bend up the tab on the stop locking ring. Loosen the bearing nut until there is a gap behind the nut and bearing. DO NOT TAKE THE NUT ALL THE WAY OFF! Use a pipe that will slide over the shaft and stick out past the shaft. Use a hammer to hit pipe against the nut. It will loosen the taper lock bushing.
  8. Remove the mounting pins, nuts, and bolts from the bearing housing and remove the housing & spacer.
  9. Repeat the step 6 though 8 on the next bearing housing.
  10. Loosen the 4 nuts on the seal housing and remove the seal housing.
  11. Use a torch to heat up the sleeve evenly to remove it from the shaft. The sleeve should come off easily. Use protective gloves that can handle the heat.

Re-install:

  1. Heat up the new sleeve evenly by putting it in an oven and heating at 400°F for 30 to 60 minutes.Slide on the new sleeve while it’s hot. Make sure the sleeve goes on the correct way. The beveled edge should face the rear of the machine. DO NOT cool down with water. It needs to cool down naturally, best to let it sit overnight.
  2. Make sure there is a 1/4 inch gap between the drum and the door ring inside the washer.
  3. Install new seals into the seal housing. Make sure the seals go into the housing correctly. (It will leak if not installed correctly. Make sure the lip faces the drum.)
  4. Make sure the sleeve has cooled down before installing the seal housing. Install the 4 nuts that go to the seal housing. Hand tighten the nuts so the seal housing can rotate freely. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
  5. Replace the seals and bearing in the bearing housing. Make sure the bearing goes into the housing correctly. The thinner side goes toward the drum. Pre-grease the bearing with the correct grease.
  6. Install the seal and bearing spacers before installing the bearing housing.
  7. Install the bearing housing. Install the pin on the bearing housing and the 4 bolts and 8 nuts. Torque the bolts and nuts to 500 foot pounds. Install the locking ring and nuts then tighten the bearing to the shaft. Bend tab on the stop washer onto the nut. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
  8. Make sure the bearing is full of grease.
  9. Install the bearing housing cap.
  10. Repeat steps 6 through 9 for the rear bearing.
  11. Install the pulley and taper lock bushing. Make sure the pulley lines up with the motor pulley.
  12. Take out the jacking bolts. Re-install the bolts that came out of the shell. Place Teflon® tape on the threads.
  13. Rotate the drum to make sure the seal housing spins. Go backwards and forwards one complete turn each. Tighten the seal housing until it does not rotate. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
  14. Make sure to have a 1/4” to 3/8” gap between drum and front of washer.
  15. Install the belts.
  16. Grease the bearing.
  17. Fill up the washer with water and check for leaks. (Make sure all tools and parts are removed.)
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